Hand Block Printing Process

What makes block printing so extraordinary?

The process of Hand Block printing is deliberate and labor-intensive. It involves 13 distinct steps, each meticulously executed by hand. In today's world, where most of what we buy is mass-produced by machines, it's hard to imagine a time when garments were solely stitched and printed by hand. However, in regions like Rajasthan, Gujarat, and Andhra Pradesh in India, there's a commitment to preserving this centuries-old tradition. The focus is on passing down the skill through generations, making it a cultural cornerstone. Entire communities are involved, with both men and women contributing their skills. Fair Trade ethics and standards are strictly adhered to, ensuring fair wages, improved living conditions, and steady employment for villagers in remote areas. Like many ancient textile art forms, block printing is eco-friendly. While the technique has evolved over time, the original methods remain unchanged, giving each piece of fabric a unique human touch and story.

 

The Process

Step 1 – Preparing the fabric. Cotton fabric is submerged in water for 24-48 hours to remove some of its stiffness. Next, the damp fabric is beaten on river stones, smoothed over time from years of use to make them gentler. The fabric is then spread out to air dry and naturally bleach under the sun. 

Step 2 – Carving the Block

Crafting the stamp can span 7 to 10 days, depending on the intricacy of the design. Whether traditional or modern, the design is first sketched on paper and then transferred onto a smooth block of wood, known as "Bunta." The wood for the block can be sourced from rosewood, mango wood, or teak wood, but it must always be 2-3 inches thick to prevent bending. A separate block must be carved for each color used in the design. A 3-meter piece of fabric can accommodate up to 1000 impressions. Every print must exhibit consistent color and maintain a seamless design, which can lead to slight irregularities. These imperfections contribute to the charm and uniqueness of each print, enhancing its individuality and character.

Step 3 - Block Printing

Once the fabric is cut to size, the colors are prepared, and the blocks are ready, the artisans commence the printing process. They spread the fabric across a lengthy table and mark a reference line with chalk. The block is dipped into the dye and firmly pressed onto the fabric. It is then struck with a mallet or the palm of the hand. This sequence is repeated continuously until the pattern completely covers the fabric's length. Each color in the design must dry before the next one is applied, and each color requires its own stamp. This meticulous process demands time and precision to ensure a seamless pattern without any interruptions.

Step 4 - Final Washing and Drying

After the printing process is finished and the colors have set, the fabric undergoes a thorough washing and drying process.

Step 5 – Inspection, Cutting, and Sewing

Next, a final inspection is conducted to identify any quality issues, followed by necessary cutting and sewing procedures.